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Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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Volume 3, issue 2
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 3, 127–134, 1996
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-3-127-1996
© Author(s) 1996. This work is licensed under
the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License.
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 3, 127–134, 1996
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-3-127-1996
© Author(s) 1996. This work is licensed under
the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 License.

  30 Jun 1996

30 Jun 1996

Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone

Th. V. Karambas Th. V. Karambas
  • Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Department of Civil Engineering, Division of Hydraulics and Environmental Engineering, Thessaloniki, 54006, Greece

Abstract. Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved simultaneously with the momentum and continuity equation. Turbulence effects and the non uniform horizontal velocity distribution due to breaking is introduced in both the energy and momentum equations. The dissipation term is a function of the velocity defect derived from a turbulent analysis. The resulting system predicts both wave characteristics (surface elevation and velocity) and the energy distribution inside surf zone. The model is validated against experimental data and analytical expressions.

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