NPG Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics NPG Nonlin. Processes Geophys. 1607-7946 Copernicus Publications Göttingen, Germany 10.5194/npg-3-127-1996 Nonlinear wave energy modelling in the surf zone Karambas Th. V. 1 Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, Department of Civil Engineering, Division of Hydraulics and Environmental Engineering, Thessaloniki, 54006, Greece 30 06 1996 3 2 127 134 Copyright: © 1996 Th. V. Karambas 1996 This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 2.5 Generic License. To view a copy of this licence, visit https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.5/ This article is available from https://npg.copernicus.org/articles/3/127/1996/npg-3-127-1996.html The full text article is available as a PDF file from https://npg.copernicus.org/articles/3/127/1996/npg-3-127-1996.pdf

Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved simultaneously with the momentum and continuity equation. Turbulence effects and the non uniform horizontal velocity distribution due to breaking is introduced in both the energy and momentum equations. The dissipation term is a function of the velocity defect derived from a turbulent analysis. The resulting system predicts both wave characteristics (surface elevation and velocity) and the energy distribution inside surf zone. The model is validated against experimental data and analytical expressions.