Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach
- 1CNRS, UMR6143 – Morphodynamique Continentale et Côtière (M2C), Université Caen Basse, Normandie, 24 rue des Tilleuls, 14000 Caen, France
- 2Institute of Applied Physics, 46, Ul'janov St., Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia
- 3Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
- 4National Research University – Higher School of Economics, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
Abstract. Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by a harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies, a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (Stefanakis et al., 2011). These effects are very important for understanding the nature of rogue waves in the coastal zone.