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Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics An interactive open-access journal of the European Geosciences Union
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Volume 15, issue 3
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 15, 489–502, 2008
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-15-489-2008
© Author(s) 2008. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.
Nonlin. Processes Geophys., 15, 489–502, 2008
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-15-489-2008
© Author(s) 2008. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

  24 Jun 2008

24 Jun 2008

Two- and three-dimensional computation of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach

B. H. Choi1, E. Pelinovsky2, D. C. Kim1, I. Didenkulova2,3, and S.-B. Woo4 B. H. Choi et al.
  • 1Dept. of Civil & Environmental Engineering, Sungkyunkwan Univ., Chunchun-dong 300, Jangan-gu, Suwon 440-746, Korea
  • 2Dept. of Nonlinear Geophysical Processes, Inst. of Applied Physics, 46 Uljanov Street, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia
  • 3Inst. of Cybernetics, Tallinn Univ. of Technology, Akadeemia tee 21, 12618 Tallinn, Estonia
  • 4Dept. of Ocean Science, Inha Univ., 253 Yonghyun-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon 402-751, Korea

Abstract. Solitary wave runup on a non-plane beach is studied analytically and numerically. For the theoretical approach, nonlinear shallow-water theory is applied to obtain the analytical solution for the simplified bottom geometry, such as an inclined channel whose cross-slope shape is parabolic. It generalizes Carrier-Greenspan approach for long wave runup on the inclined plane beach that is currently used now. For the numerical study, the Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) system is applied to study soliton runup on an inclined beach and the detailed characteristics of the wave processes (water displacement, velocity field, turbulent kinetic energy, energy dissipation) are analyzed. In this study, it is theoretically and numerically proved that the existence of a parabolic cross-slope channel on the plane beach causes runup intensification, which is often observed in post-tsunami field surveys.

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